Some of the Alpine districts are entirely pastoral, where naught save cow-herd’s horn and cattle-bell is heard. In the spring it is a pretty sight to see the groups of cows with tinkling bells start for the mountains. With metropolitan menus and salles à manger, bengal lights and brass bands, reached by cable roads, are perched on crags where only the eagle used to build his eyrie or the chamois seek refuge. In July and August a quarter of a million tourists fill this little mountain country through its length and breadth with their joyfulness and jargon. This annual irruption constitutes a perennial well-spring of good fortune to many branches of industry and to a large number of Swiss people.
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In general, the French increase in Switzerland seems to be at the expense of the Germans, while the German element recovers its place at the expense of the Italian. Swiss history is largely the history of the drawing together of parts of three adjoining nations for common defence against a common foe, little by little winning their independence. Determined to force the Swiss to join the Suabian League; hence resulted the Suabian war, which was concluded after the Swiss had gained six victories, by the peace of Basel in 1499. In 1512, by the Milanese war, the Swiss obtained from Milan the territory which at present forms the Canton of Ticino. In 1515, after losing the battle of Marignano,6 an advantageous peace was concluded with France, which was followed by the first formal alliance with that kingdom in 1521; and the two countries enjoyed an almost uninterrupted amity for nearly three hundred years. Then followed irruptions of Alemanni, Ostrogoths, and Franks.
The most dreaded and terrible avalanches—those of dry powdery snow—occur only in winter, when sudden squalls and hurricanes of snow throw the whole atmosphere into chaos. They come down in sudden whirlwinds, with the violence of a waterspout, and in a few minutes work great destruction. All the Alps have, more or less, naked excrescences, which rise above the crest of the range, and which, in the language of the country, are not inaptly termed “dents,” from some fancied and plausible resemblance to human teeth. It is impossible to convey a vivid, and at the same time an accurate, impression of grand scenery by the use of words. Written accounts, when they come near their climax, fall as much below the intention as words are less substantial than things. With the bleating of the flocks and the chimes of the cow-bells are mingled the murmuring of the bees, the running streams, whispering pines, the melancholy voice of the goat-herder, and the plaintive whistle of the mountain thrush.
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Of these 1002 inns no fewer than 283 are situated in positions above three thousand four hundred feet, and 14 are actually above six thousand five hundred and sixty-two feet in elevation. 61 The difficulty of obtaining citizenship, at one time, in the pastoral Cantons, is shown by the fact that no one had done so in lower Unterwald from 1664 to 1815. 29 It was the original purpose of the writer to include, as an appendix to this volume, a translation of the Swiss Constitution; a faithful search having failed to discover any publication of it in English.
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We marvelled as our leopard climbed languorously down from the tree and walked towards an open-sided vehicle that had joined us. I wondered whether the leopard might consider this a mobile buffet, and I was glad our vehicle was solid-sided! I was even happier we were well-protected when we came upon the carcass of a full sized cape buffalo that had been gutted by a nearby pride of lions.
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The mountains’ response to the “alphorn” is most singular and beautiful. When the tune on the horn is ended, the Alps make, not an echo, but a reproduction of it, in an improved and heightened character; they take up, as it were, and chant the air again with infinite sweetness and a dancing grace that is delightful. They seem to constitute a natural instrument of music, of which the horn is but the awakening breath. The writer, on behalf of the New England Conservatory of Music, Boston, requested of the Swiss government samples of musical instruments of Swiss origin. The tone is powerful, and the middle notes extremely mellow. Swiss citizens in foreign countries, if they are subject to a personal service or to an exemption tax for the same in place of domicile.
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It was my privilege to have seen one of these primitive assemblies, held on the hill-side market-place of Trogen, the seat of government of Appenzell-ausser-Rhoden. Trogen is in the rolling, grassy, breezy Appenzell Alps, the home of primitive virtue, the stronghold of Swiss simplicity, honesty, and courage, and the region of light hearts and merry tongues. It was the first Sunday in May, from which day the Appenzellers date all the events of the year. All these cases an appeal lies from the Federal Council to the Federal Assembly. Thus a wide field of judicial action is withheld from the sphere of the court, and upon questions which do not appear to possess any “administrative” character; producing a division of functions which is very anomalous. There has always existed in Switzerland a very strong current of opinion, that the court should be occupied exclusively with questions of public law, and should possess no jurisdiction in matters of private law.
They were still jealous of the plenary powers of their delegates, and insisted that their deliberations when formulated into laws, should be referred to the sovereign people. Previous to the French revolution, the governments of the different Cantons had largely fallen into the hands of a limited number of aristocratic families. The laboring classes were crushed under enormous burdens by the nobility in the rural districts, and by the rich bourgeoisie in the cities. Artificial barriers were placed about the freedom of commerce and labor in the interest of these more powerful classes. The period of reaction following the Napoleonic era was unfavorable to the development of popular institutions.
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